By Judith Lane
An aperitif such as a glass of champagne, pastis or Campari and soda is ideal when you’re looking over the menu and wine list. Smart restaurants list these openers with the by-the-glass wines selections. They’re enjoyed at home before dinner and in many countries they’re part of late afternoon or early evening rituals shared with friends after a busy day. Often, they’re accompanied by small snacks such as almonds, olives, pâté, savoury crackers or tapas.
(Scroll down for recommended aperitifs available in BC Liquor Stores.)
When I visited friends in the south of France last spring, villagers – a few or sometimes a crowd – gathered regularly at each other’s homes at about five o’clock for apéros. The drinks were usually Blanquette or Crémant de Limoux (local sparkling wines) for the women and pastis for the men. Nibbles were simple – nuts, chips and always a selection of olives. These soirees weren’t meant to be dinner, but casual hour-long spur of the moment get-togethers. Sometimes, since the whole point of apéro is to spend time with friends, another bottle is opened, more snacks are put out, and the gathering extends well into the evening.
Some of the best-known aperitifs have been around for centuries and are enjoying a renaissance. At one time, they were concocted for restorative purposes. Noilly Prat was created in 1813 in the south of France by herbalist Joseph Noilly, Dubonnet was crafted by Joseph Dubonnet in Paris in 1846, and Lillet, made near Bordeaux, was marketed as health tonic in 1887 by wine merchants Paul and Raymond Lillet.
Pineau des Charentes, a lesser-known regional aperitif from France’s Cognac region, is growing in popularity. The legend is that Pineau des Charentes originated in western France in 1589, when a winemaker accidentally added grape must to a barrel of eau de vie. Pastis, one of France’s most popular apéros, first popped up in Marseille in the early 1920s. The ever-stylish Kir (white wine with a splash of crème de cassis) was introduced in Paris in the 1940s. The luxury version, Kir Royale (Pineau des Charentes Champagne and crème de cassis) soon followed.
Gaspare Campari originated Campari, Italy’s iconic aperitivos in 1860 in Novar, Italy. Cinzano dates back to 1757, when brothers Giovanni and Carlo Cinzano produced the first Cinzano from a unique blend of herbs and spices. Martini & Rossi, a partnership between Alessandro Martini and Luigi Rossi, was launched in 1863 in Piedmont. Currently, Martini & Rossi makes Bianco, Extra Dry and Rosso vermouths, plus sweet, sparkling Asti, a dry Prosecco and a sparkling rosé, covering all the aperitivos bases.
In Italy, the aperitivo tradition is a little different from the French apéro hour. Italians flock to vinotecas (wine bars) or neighbourhood cafés to socialize with pre-dinner aperitivos usually from six o’clock to about nine in the evening, but it’s also not uncommon to have them before lunch or even in mid-afternoon. Many aperitivos such as Campari and Cinzano are a little bitter, and have been enjoyed for decades. In recent years, light-bodied white wines and Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) have become popular. The bars usually serve complimentary bites such as olives, nuts, fresh mozzarella, prosciutto and bresaola, savoury pastries, bread and even small slices of pizza.
Spaniards crowd neighbourhood bars for an aperitivo before lunch or after work. Most often, it’s an elegant glass of fino sherry or perhaps wine or beer and enjoyed with tapas, which are sometimes also called aperitivos. The original tapas was a simple piece of bread placed over the drink to keep out flies. Happily, tapas such as small plates of anchovies, olives, chorizo, jamòn or almonds soon accompanied the bread.
In Greece, the favourite aperitif is anise-flavoured ouzo. Ouzo is diluted with a little water, which turns it cloudy. (This process is called “louching” and also occurs with absinthe and pastis.) It’s unclear when the first ouzo was made, but raki, its predecessor, originated over 300 years ago and ouzo was first commercially distilled in the 19th century. It is served with a selection of appetizers called mezethes, which can include grilled octopus, taramasalata (fish roe spread) and olives.
Other apéro choices such as champagne, sparkling wine, white and rosé wines, sake and cocktails made with white spirits like the Negroni (gin, vermouth, Campari and an orange peel garnish). The Americano (Campari, vermouth and soda water) and the Bellini (peach purée and Prosecco) are all fresh and light. A new French spirit, St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur, lends itself to refreshing aperitif cocktails like the St-Germain Kir Blanc (St-Germain and Sauvignon Blanc) or ultra-easy St-Germain and soda.
If you’re not already an apéro enthusiast, there’s no time like the present to get on board and spend time with friends, or simply rev up your appetite before dinner. After all, there’s a world of aperitifs, aperitvos and apéros to sample.
Try an aperitif before a meal to cleanse your palate and relax. These ones are recommended and available in stores.
This iconic liqueur was first made in 1932 by 23-year old entrepreneur Paul Ricard from star anise, green anise, licorice and Provençal herbs. Anise-flavoured, it’s slightly bitter, smooth and mellow. Traditionally, pastis is mixed with water which turns the transparent, yellow liquid milky.
This brilliant, naturally red “tonic” is one of the best-known aperitivos on the planet. An infusion of 60 herbs and fruits, the result is an intriguing mix of bitter, sweet, sour and fruit flavours. Mix Campari with soda or orange juice, or enjoy a Negroni or Americano cocktail.
It’s Italian and has bubbles, but it’s not Prosecco. This sparkling Pinot Grigio is as tasty as the bottle is eye-catching. Expect lively effervescence, green apple, pear and citrus aromas and easy minerality. Fresh, crisp and light-bodied with a citrus finish, it’s a crowdpleasing aperitivo.
Pineau des Charentes is a sweet, Cognac-fortified wine made with grapes from the Cognac region following a process that is a closely guarded secret. Golden and clear in colour, fruity and heady on the nose, this complex wine is enchanting with nuances of honey and raisin acting as perfect partners for this dessert.
This easy-drinking aperitif wine is enjoying a major revival both as an apéro (straight, chilled) and in cocktails like the Vesper martini. Made with Bordeaux wines and citrus-infused liqueurs and matured in oak, it finishes crisp, slightly sweet with a zip of bitterness.
This classic aperitif is made from Picpoul and Clairette grapes and aged outdoors for a year in small oak casks, then infused with herbs, flowers, fruits and spices. The result is an ambercoloured, aromatic, dry, full-bodied almost sherrylike wine. Sip chilled with a twist of lemon.
